It was an interesting start as I noticed that the Egyptian Museum is right behind the hotel. It is full of stuff that is basically anything and everything that came out of archaeological sites--Mummies, pottery, jewelry, tons of hyeroglyphics on boxes etc. Also had these carts that looked like horse-drawn carriages from Ben Hur. What was perhaps more telling was that it was pretty run down. It was 80 degrees out and the Museum has no AC or climate control of any sort
and you have rows and rows of Mummies and limestone stuff sitting around, some in boxes that the British probably built 100s of years ago when they invaded. Also, there is no description of anything, except that it is chronologically organized. That said, it was a more fun way of exploring a museum, you pretty much went to things that attracted you, read minimal descriptions if available, and also saw the more important things because you know where the tourist guides and 50,000 tourists are all gathered.
The guidebook surprisingly had a good description of stuff. There was very intricate Jewelry, I thought it was cool how they had figured out clasps, and colorful beads etc. thousands of years ago and there was such fine detail and exquisite craftsmanship. Another thing that they had were these pots(like vases) that had different heads of animals as their tops-there was a monkey, jackal, goat(I think) and snake; I bumped into a description on the wall that said that each of these signify which organ was taken out and put into these so that it wouldn't rot with the Mummy. One was for lungs, the other for Liver, another for intestines and I forget what the last was. They would place these with the Mummy so that when the soul came back for the
body to be reborn, it would know where to find these things. Genius! Although I wonder where it would find these among literally the million other things that were left with the Mummy. Not unlike the Terracotta soldiers I guess, although that was one and this was about
100 plus that we know of so far. That reminds me, it was interesting to see Chinese and Russian
tourists (and more fun, Egyptian guides speaking Chinese and Russian) for the first time. Also could hear Swedish, German etc.
Anyways. After 4 hours of this and smelling sweat and 5000 years of decalcification, decided
to duck out. Oh one more thing, everything was guarded by guards and other workers--there were three different uniforms, so I am sure it was different levels, but they were all dozing off or chatting with each other. At one point I noticed that all the workers in the blue uniforms ran out(like 15 of them) and this woman outside gave each of them like 100 Egyptian(EL, conversion rate $1=~5EL); wasn't sure what that was about.
Anyways, got out at about Noon and thought I should head to the Pyramids as it was close to afternoon opening time-tickets are given only twice a day in a limited amount. Guidebook said I could cab it for 20-25EL to and 40EL back and the ticket would be 100EL(could have
done it more cheaper with 4EL with their version of the Tempo, but didn't want to bother finding the getting off and on point as only the locals know where they are and didn't feel like practicing my Arabic, they do look at you a bit strangely that you are traveling alone). As I was walking out of the hotel lobby though, I happen to glance that American Express had a tour as well and it was all inclusive for 180EL-figured it was a good enough deal with English guide and airconditioned minibus and opted for that instead. It was me and 7 Swedes in the bus. The pyramids are in Giza which is across the Nile from Cairo. Its exactly like the Boston-Cambridge situation. Its about
a 25 minute drive from where I am staying. One thing you do notice as soon as you get a bit out the city is practically all the buildings are all unfinished. Redbrick, no plaster, iron beams open and sticking out. Read later that it is the way Egyptians evade taxes--unfinished building, will have to pay taxes when finished, so let's leave it perpetually in build mode. You would think govt would have caught on by now.
Anyways, the Pyramids are pretty much on a sandy plateau with limestone dug up all around. This complex had 3 main ones. Huma-i am sorry to say behind one of the smaller pyramids were three even more little ones and I was told that that was for the 3 main wives. Its basically a complex of graves essentially, if you think about it. With important people closer to the Emperor's grave-the largest pyramid, family next, nobles after and common folk somewhere out there. Anyways, apparently they were gilded with white limestone and gold and the tops had solid gold so the sun would make them glimmer but it has all been pillaged. One interesting thing the guide mentioned was that the limestone was now beginning to deteriorate because of a sudden, due to global warming, egypt is becoming humid and humidity is apparently the worst enemy for limestone. sigh! In one of the pyramids, you can crawl in. I tried, was claustrophobic and about to pass out from smelling sweat and walked back out. Apparently didn't miss much as there is just a burial chamber and no hyeroglyphivs or anything. The one in another town is more interesting I was told.
There was the usual hoard of touristy gimmicks with camel and horse rides that you have to endlessly bargain and trinkets. Saw the Sphinx next, same complex. Apparently when they were done digging up all the limestone around the pyramids to make them there was this mound of bad quality limestone left, it looked like a lion so they shaped it like one and put the pharoah's head on it. It used to be colorful and gold with a beard but no more. The beard is apparently in the V&A museum. After about 2.5 hours we were done walking around and ended up at a genuine papyrus store as a last stop. I got a good bargain on a market scene because the owner noticed I was fasting(didn't order drinks); gave me a couple of pieces free and the market scene at 1/3rd the marked price. I am sure he still made a profit, but it was the gesture. On the way back through the crazy traffic, noticed that a BMW stopped on the middle of the highway and
about 10 people rushed to it and the guy gave them all money. The ones that got hold of the money were arguing with the others to share. The guide explained that it is the rich distributing zakat this way in Ramadan. Very inefficient and demeaning way I think, but hey, if it works... Maybe that is what the woman at the museum was doing as well.
Came to the hotel right in time to take a quick shower before heading out to hunt for iftar. The concierge pointed out a place on the map that was walkable distance and traditional Egyptian food. I walked over and got thoroughly lost for half an hour or so as there are no street signs that make sense(perhaps its the map). Could hear the Maghrib azaan so bought fresh mango juice from a store and broke the fast, a passerby was distributing dates to everyone so took one of those and noticed the sign for the restaurant right in front of me, but it was closed. Most people around were breaking their fast with food they took out of lunch boxes-looked like rice, meat, peas and carrots, bread, stuffed peppers and lentil soup. Anyways, the most crowded places at this time were KFC and Hardee's, full of families, young couples, all dining on fried chicken. Found one restaurant but the clientelle looked almost all male, so decided to walk back to the hotel and opted for the pre-fixe iftar at one of the hotel restaurants. Drank like three bottles of water! Was so tired that came to my room and crashed. Woke up an hour and a half later and am now at the rooftop restaurant/tapas place. Although the menu has nothing spanish on it. The weather is great-70 degrees pbably with a breeze. Am staring at the nile all lit up. Families, other tourists, arabs, all hanging out smoking sheesha. Had some foul(red beans) and Kharoub(like hibiscus tea-a special ramadan drink) and am now thinking of retiring to bed.
If you have read this far, I commend your patience. Tomorrow, Islamic
Cairo and Al Azhar University. Meet with a friend of a friend, sundus,
for iftar.
and you have rows and rows of Mummies and limestone stuff sitting around, some in boxes that the British probably built 100s of years ago when they invaded. Also, there is no description of anything, except that it is chronologically organized. That said, it was a more fun way of exploring a museum, you pretty much went to things that attracted you, read minimal descriptions if available, and also saw the more important things because you know where the tourist guides and 50,000 tourists are all gathered.
The guidebook surprisingly had a good description of stuff. There was very intricate Jewelry, I thought it was cool how they had figured out clasps, and colorful beads etc. thousands of years ago and there was such fine detail and exquisite craftsmanship. Another thing that they had were these pots(like vases) that had different heads of animals as their tops-there was a monkey, jackal, goat(I think) and snake; I bumped into a description on the wall that said that each of these signify which organ was taken out and put into these so that it wouldn't rot with the Mummy. One was for lungs, the other for Liver, another for intestines and I forget what the last was. They would place these with the Mummy so that when the soul came back for the
body to be reborn, it would know where to find these things. Genius! Although I wonder where it would find these among literally the million other things that were left with the Mummy. Not unlike the Terracotta soldiers I guess, although that was one and this was about
100 plus that we know of so far. That reminds me, it was interesting to see Chinese and Russian
tourists (and more fun, Egyptian guides speaking Chinese and Russian) for the first time. Also could hear Swedish, German etc.
Anyways. After 4 hours of this and smelling sweat and 5000 years of decalcification, decided
to duck out. Oh one more thing, everything was guarded by guards and other workers--there were three different uniforms, so I am sure it was different levels, but they were all dozing off or chatting with each other. At one point I noticed that all the workers in the blue uniforms ran out(like 15 of them) and this woman outside gave each of them like 100 Egyptian(EL, conversion rate $1=~5EL); wasn't sure what that was about.
Anyways, got out at about Noon and thought I should head to the Pyramids as it was close to afternoon opening time-tickets are given only twice a day in a limited amount. Guidebook said I could cab it for 20-25EL to and 40EL back and the ticket would be 100EL(could have
done it more cheaper with 4EL with their version of the Tempo, but didn't want to bother finding the getting off and on point as only the locals know where they are and didn't feel like practicing my Arabic, they do look at you a bit strangely that you are traveling alone). As I was walking out of the hotel lobby though, I happen to glance that American Express had a tour as well and it was all inclusive for 180EL-figured it was a good enough deal with English guide and airconditioned minibus and opted for that instead. It was me and 7 Swedes in the bus. The pyramids are in Giza which is across the Nile from Cairo. Its exactly like the Boston-Cambridge situation. Its about
a 25 minute drive from where I am staying. One thing you do notice as soon as you get a bit out the city is practically all the buildings are all unfinished. Redbrick, no plaster, iron beams open and sticking out. Read later that it is the way Egyptians evade taxes--unfinished building, will have to pay taxes when finished, so let's leave it perpetually in build mode. You would think govt would have caught on by now.
Anyways, the Pyramids are pretty much on a sandy plateau with limestone dug up all around. This complex had 3 main ones. Huma-i am sorry to say behind one of the smaller pyramids were three even more little ones and I was told that that was for the 3 main wives. Its basically a complex of graves essentially, if you think about it. With important people closer to the Emperor's grave-the largest pyramid, family next, nobles after and common folk somewhere out there. Anyways, apparently they were gilded with white limestone and gold and the tops had solid gold so the sun would make them glimmer but it has all been pillaged. One interesting thing the guide mentioned was that the limestone was now beginning to deteriorate because of a sudden, due to global warming, egypt is becoming humid and humidity is apparently the worst enemy for limestone. sigh! In one of the pyramids, you can crawl in. I tried, was claustrophobic and about to pass out from smelling sweat and walked back out. Apparently didn't miss much as there is just a burial chamber and no hyeroglyphivs or anything. The one in another town is more interesting I was told.
There was the usual hoard of touristy gimmicks with camel and horse rides that you have to endlessly bargain and trinkets. Saw the Sphinx next, same complex. Apparently when they were done digging up all the limestone around the pyramids to make them there was this mound of bad quality limestone left, it looked like a lion so they shaped it like one and put the pharoah's head on it. It used to be colorful and gold with a beard but no more. The beard is apparently in the V&A museum. After about 2.5 hours we were done walking around and ended up at a genuine papyrus store as a last stop. I got a good bargain on a market scene because the owner noticed I was fasting(didn't order drinks); gave me a couple of pieces free and the market scene at 1/3rd the marked price. I am sure he still made a profit, but it was the gesture. On the way back through the crazy traffic, noticed that a BMW stopped on the middle of the highway and
about 10 people rushed to it and the guy gave them all money. The ones that got hold of the money were arguing with the others to share. The guide explained that it is the rich distributing zakat this way in Ramadan. Very inefficient and demeaning way I think, but hey, if it works... Maybe that is what the woman at the museum was doing as well.
Came to the hotel right in time to take a quick shower before heading out to hunt for iftar. The concierge pointed out a place on the map that was walkable distance and traditional Egyptian food. I walked over and got thoroughly lost for half an hour or so as there are no street signs that make sense(perhaps its the map). Could hear the Maghrib azaan so bought fresh mango juice from a store and broke the fast, a passerby was distributing dates to everyone so took one of those and noticed the sign for the restaurant right in front of me, but it was closed. Most people around were breaking their fast with food they took out of lunch boxes-looked like rice, meat, peas and carrots, bread, stuffed peppers and lentil soup. Anyways, the most crowded places at this time were KFC and Hardee's, full of families, young couples, all dining on fried chicken. Found one restaurant but the clientelle looked almost all male, so decided to walk back to the hotel and opted for the pre-fixe iftar at one of the hotel restaurants. Drank like three bottles of water! Was so tired that came to my room and crashed. Woke up an hour and a half later and am now at the rooftop restaurant/tapas place. Although the menu has nothing spanish on it. The weather is great-70 degrees pbably with a breeze. Am staring at the nile all lit up. Families, other tourists, arabs, all hanging out smoking sheesha. Had some foul(red beans) and Kharoub(like hibiscus tea-a special ramadan drink) and am now thinking of retiring to bed.
If you have read this far, I commend your patience. Tomorrow, Islamic
Cairo and Al Azhar University. Meet with a friend of a friend, sundus,
for iftar.
4 comments:
I do like this Blog, it is really nice.
Hum!!! I love the chronicles... keep it coming! Do you have photos?
I've been to Egypt once, and enjoyed the trip very much. The only thing that I didn't like was the cab drivers. On the 4th day we decided to rent a car: a bit more expensive then cabs, but MUCH less headache.
KB Home
Post a Comment